Friday, December 1, 2006

Shenzhen of Thieves

There’s a party in my glass.. At least that is what the morning sun seems to think as her rays dance merrily off the frozen cubes swirling slowly in my drink. I wonder if the cubes would put up a fight if they knew what the sun was up to. Well, no matter, the cubes will exact revenge in their final moments when they release the carefully preserved bacteria strains the've so closely guarded. Note to self: “less stirring; more drinking”

Ok, besides the not-so-subtle reference to dysentery, that had little to do with Hong Kong. It did, however, create a fitting prologue for the primary topic of this journal entry. It is jokingly said that the Chinese will eat anything that moves, and after a recent trip to the Mainland, I can vouch for the validity of this theory.


A couple of weekends ago a friend and I took a trip into mainland China. We planned to spend a day in the city of Shen-Zhen which is the border city between Hong Kong and the Mainland. Upon clearing customs, we stopped at a booth to exchange currency and I made the critical mistake of putting my wallet in the outside pocket of my backpack. We walked out of the train station and into a 7-11 where I noticed that both wallet and Ipod were no longer in my possession. Luckily I had my passport in a different pocket. I had over 300 episodes of Lum and Abner on that Ipod, so whoever has it now is sure to be bored out of their minds.

After this rocky start, my friend Jeroen and I decided to continue our trip on his dime. We spent the rest of the morning walking around the city. It was fun to travel without agenda. Shen-Zhen is the first city in China to have a McDonalds, so we used this excuse to satisfy our western palates.

We went back to the train/bus station in the afternoon to return home, but decided to be spontaneous and go somewhere else. There was a large bus schedule covering one wall of the terminal, so we picked a city (random unknown Chinese symbol) and bought a couple tickets.

After a few hrs on that bus we arrived in the “unknown” city. I still have no idea where we went, but the setting sun was shining through the back of the bus so I have a general idea we were east and north of our previous location.

We walked around the city for a bit and then went to get something to eat. We had a nice meal of rice and several different types of meet and vegetables. When we went to pay the total came to 10 Yuan. I couldn’t believe how cheep it was! (10 Yuan is approximately $1.20 US for two people)

Next, we tried to find a suitable hotel. We went to the first one we came by, but it looked too nice for a student budget, so we didn’t bother to check for prices. We approached some people on the street, and, in my poorly spoken Chinese, I tried to explain to them that my wallet was stolen and we were looking for a cheep place to sleep for the night.

They understood my dilemma, but didn’t speak any English and I couldn’t understand the directions they were giving me. One of the guys asked me to wait and ran off in search of his friend. After bringing his friend from the restaurant, I again explained our situation and asked directions to a cheep hotel.

He spoke less English than I speak Chinese, but after a bit he said “Get in car, I take you”. Remembering my childhood lessons about not accepting rides from strangers, I was a bit hesitant, but then I figured I had broken so many other safety rules on this trip.. what’s one more.

The guy took us to a nice hotel, and parked the car. He went up to the front desk, handed the lady 300 yuan and said “Ok, I take you room”. Well, now my paranoia was in hyperdrive. I wasn’t sure what I said to the guy, but I was quite certain I never asked him to pay for our room! (or for that matter, don’t recall promising any sexual favors in return for his generosity, but like I said… my Chinese is quite poor)

We entered the room, which was nice and very comfortable. He said, “sit down”. I thought, “Oh Boy, Here it goes…” I leaned over to Jeroen and said, “You’re up first!” See, I’m an unselfish guy. Then the guy said, “You today.. have problem.” (heart beating faster) “Maybe I tomorrow also problem, so I help you!” Then he said goodbye and left… Was one of the most touching experiences I’ve had in a while.

Later that night we went for a walk through the city to find some food and entertainment. I bought a pack of Chinese cigarettes for 2 Yuan ( .25 cents USD) and lit one up. After a deep drag, I instantly understood the reason Chinese people are constantly spitting. I think a tube attached to a buss exhaust would provide fewer toxins.

Next stop was a small market stall selling dried, spicy goose neck. I promptly traded the remainder of my smokes for a neck and took a good bite.. Seconds later I had the overwhelming sensation that my lips were on fire. I looked over at Jeroen, who had polished off the rest of the neck, and he had fluids streaming out of his eyes, nose and the sides of his mouth. I don’t know if I’ve ever tasted anything that spicy before, but I was grateful my taste buds had been thrown into disarray. The goose could easily have been a few weeks (months) deceased.

We made a few more stops and on our way home, found another new delicacy we had not yet tried. Charcoaled bat… yum. The bats were skewered through the torso and through the wings.. like a crucifix-kabob. While waiting for our bats to cook, we took a couple of the raw fellows and had a bat fight… to the amusement of our spitting chef. After the bats were finished cooking, he said “Spice?”… sure… why not.

Have to say the bat was very tasty… but I couldn’t bring myself to eat more than a couple bites. Once again, Jeroen was happy to polish off the rest… head and all. After that we went back to our complimentary hotel room, apologized to our stomachs and fell asleep.

Having survived the night we set out in the morning to find a McDonalds. I asked several people for directions and then learned something.. It doesn’t do any good to ask directions in Chinese if you don’t understand direction words.. we never found the McDonalds.

We did, however, find a bus station 6 hrs later and decided it was time to go home. We were out of Chinese Yuan so we walked to the bank to change some more money. On our way back, my friend said something about wanting to visit Guangzhou, Chinas third largest city. A few minutes later, we had tickets to Guangzhou, another three hr bus ride in the wrong direction.

Having guessed that our day trip might be extended, I had a change of cloths, which was more than I can say for my Dutch friend, who was beginning to smell a bit. No matter, we arrived in Guanzhou and began walking again. We passed a nice duck restaurant but something caught my eye. There were the usual roasted poultry items strung from the neck in the window, but on the end, I saw something the looked suspiciously like a bald, cooked version of Rosie (grandmas dog).

It was a dog (rather half of one) strung from the nostrils… an initially disturbing sight for most westerners. We continued walking for a few blocks then Jeroen asked if we could go back and get a picture of the dog. So we did, but ultimately a picture wasn’t enough. A large helping of dog and two conflicted consciences later, we left the restaurant.

We found a suitable hotel room that night and spent the next day walking around the city. I would love to know the number of miles we covered during these three days, but I would not like to be the guys sitting near us for the bus ride home…. Yikes. Lucky for us, the only toilet on the bus backed up and a smell more powerful than ours provided adequate distraction.

I believe the thing that impressed me the most about this trip was the cost. All totaled, including tickets, meals, hotels and drinks, I owed my friend less than $70 when we returned. I easily spend that on an average night out in Hong Kong or the states.

So we tasted the good and the bad of China. Surprising low points were matched by equally unexpected moments of generosity. All part of the balance I suppose… the Ying… the Yang…. And the Yikes!

Wednesday, November 1, 2006

The Chinese University of Hong Kong

Ni Hao! Wo jiao Miao Shi Wei. If you’re receiving this email, it’s because I (or someone I know) thought you might be interested. This is my first journal entry from my studies abroad. All photos are original, taken with a Sony DSC-T9 digital camera. Enjoy!


The Chinese University of Hong Kong campus is magnificent, with rolling, tropical mountains capturing three quarters of the landscape and an open sea greeting from the East. It is, however, the rolling mountains that are fuelling an epic civil war between my thighs and eyes. The mountains themselves pose no real threat; however, the flawless trifecta of mountains, 90% humidity and 95 degree weather has launched a strategic attack on my rapidly depleting energy reserves.

As large beads of sweat fall onto my freshly folded laundry, I wonder what administrative flaw put a 250 lb American 5 floors above the closest washer and dryer. Of course I could wait for the un-air-conditioned elevator, but it seams to have a mind of its own. When it’s working, it’s usually going in the wrong direction, and when it does climb it seems to be doing so without any justifiable explanation or input. (not unlike our Presidents approval rating)
This campus is hailed as the most beautiful in Asia. The wonderful contrast of tropical plants, modern architecture and cascading water are a perfect distraction from the insane heat. (As is the Chinese Pottery Museum in central campus… best air-conditioning in Hong Kong and great place to feign interest in 2500 year old water vessels)

When I arrived at CUHK it took me a little while to notice my surroundings. At first it took a bit of effort to leave the air-conditioned dorm and go exploring, however after orientation they shut off the free air-conditioning and we now have to pay for it. For me, this has provided adequate motivation to go out and embrace the tropics.

When I began writing this journal it was early August and it is now late September. The weather has improved dramatically and it is quite comfortable now.

Since then, things have calmed down. Only a typhoon and an earthquake last week are reminders that I’m “not in Kansas anymore”.

One evening we traveled to a three story river front restaurant in Shatin. There were 400 of us and we only filled up one of the three available dining floors. We were treated to an 8 course meal, only some of which I recognized. The fish and chicken were unmistakable as they were served without waste.
I went back to Shatin last night to purchase a desk top fan. The fan was in a bag clearly labeled with a price tag of HK$399. I asked the shop keeper to plug it in for me and he obliged. When writing my sales ticket, I noticed he charged me $599. I pointed out the tag and told him I would prefer to pay the local people price. He had a sheepish grin on his face as he tried to explain the “Bush Tax” to me. In the end he settled for HK$350 and an ear full.

(Note: I would have just gone to another vendor, however this guy earned huge creativity points in my book for his attempted explanation of the Bush Tax. I can certainly appreciate originality, especially in this country.)

Classes started in early September and are progressing nicely, although I admit I am having a difficult time focusing. I am taking a relatively light load this semester (15credits) so that I can do some traveling and learn more about the Asian culture.

I picked up my multi-entry Visa for the mainland yesterday. I am only a few minutes train ride away from the boarder and plan to take numerous trips into the mainland. My Cousin and her husband are teaching at a University a few hrs north of me and I hope to visit them soon.

I am staying in the International House dormitory (1 of 2) and it is quite comfortable. I share a room with two other exchange students from Beijing.
Having never lived on a college campus before I was a bit anxious about the experience, but it has not been a problem for me. My room mates are both interesting guys. Both are 20 and neither has ever kissed a girl, which I find terrifying but they say it’s the norm. One of them is an expert pianist and I enjoy listening to him play. We have a nice piano in the common room and it seems to always be in use. The musical talent that is emerging from my building alone is phenomenal. I have never heard Mozart and Beethoven played to such perfection.

Frank has the unusual ability to hear any song and directly write down the sheet music. I’ve never seen anything like it. I have played my Fur Elise for him and he is helping me work out the few remaining bugs. On numerous occasions he has expressed amazement that I can play with such “fat fingers”… Robert you should enjoy that.

The other room mate is Alex. I call him the “toucher” because… well… he is constantly touching me. Every time I come into the room he pats my stomach and says “wow… so soft!” I’m sure it is a cultural thing, and I am trying to endure with a good sense of humor!

As you can see from the picture above, taken from my living room and the pictures on the first page taken from my balcony, our flat has an incredible view. The only drawback about the I-house is that the closest free bus stop is 6 flights of stairs and a long hill away and the closest class room is even farther.

I have been taking some time to party, of course, but I am trying not to forget the reason I came here. Learn Chinese and a better appreciation for Asian culture.

To that end, I'll leave you with a fun little story that happened to me the other day.

I was walking across campus one evening and ran into a huge crowd of water gun toting Asian students. Apparently they were having a freshmen initiation and there must have been 50-100 people in this huge water fight. They had filled three small kiddy pools as well and were using these to refill guns and to dunk people in. I'm not sure how I became a target but next thing I knew I was in the middle of a full fledged war. Being the only white face in the fray, and being an easy 6 inches taller and wider than their largest representative, I became a popular target. 3 of the Lilliputians (ref Gullivers Travels) tried to pick me up and drop me into the pool. It amused me to watch them tugging at my legs in a futile effort to dislodge my footing, however my smirk quickly vanished when I realized they subscribed to the Power in Numbers theory. I quickly began to empathize with Gulliver when I was dropped into the pool and bucket after bucket of water was poured onto my head. The Lilliputians began to chant in a language that I didn't understand and which I can only assume was a celebration of my defeat. (more than likely a local college initiation song) Then, as quickly as they appeared, they vanished. I could hear their continued cries echoing across the campus, but there I was, holding a bucket of water in a sea of discarded guns and buckets and not a soul in sight. Cosmic….