Monday, February 12, 2007
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Friday, February 9, 2007
Guilin - Part 1 - Little Sister
Colorless wisps of unconsumed pleasure rise in lazy vertical columns from the glowing ends of too many cigarettes. An old man coughs, a young man spits, a slender woman frets with the hem of her unraveling sweater while her child nonchalantly walks in circles and talks to someone I can not see in a language only the child and his invisible friend can understand. A shouting match erupts somewhere in room, I don’t look up. It’s China… people yell.
There are 2,300 ceiling tiles in Guilin station and 400 flickering fluorescent lights, all humming a tune, not quite pleasant, not quite harmonious, but a tune none the less. The hard bench is forcing my spine into an unpleasant therapeutic alignment, the clothes in my pack provide a makeshift pillow, the 400 member fluorescent choir continues humming somewhere above. I’m such a baby when I’m sick. “Hey China, Shut up and let me rest!” My train will be here in two more hours, 18 hrs later I’ll be back in my dorm, eating chicken soup and reflecting on the events of the past few days…
3 days earlier..
My final exams are finished, I’m bored. I pack a change of cloths, my camera and my passport. A Google search and a few clicks tell me there is an overnight train to Guilin leaving from Shenzhen at 6:00. Shenzhen.. hmm.. nice, maybe I’ll find a stall where I can buy a used Ipod and wallet. (ref: Shenzhen of Thieves)
There are generally three options for traveling by train in China; hard seats, hard sleepers and soft sleepers. Hard seats are exactly what they sound like. These cars are equipped for sitting only. The hard sleepers are actually quite comfortable rooms with 6 bunks, three on each side. The soft sleepers are more expensive. The rooms have doors and there are only four bunks.
This train should be an uneventful ride, but as luck would have it, I’m sharing the hard sleeper with 4 generations of Chinese women; Granddaughter, Mother, Grandma and, if my perceptions are accurate, Mother Time. They are very excited when I respond to them in Chinese and equally excited when 10 min later, I exhaust my vocabulary.
I’m laying on the middle bunk, Granddaughter and Grandmother are below me and the other two are on adjacent bunks. Not long after the train starts and the car grows quiet, a little hand snakes up from below and pokes my arm.. “Ge Ge…..Ge Ge.." Older brother… Older Brother, says a small little voice from below… then the hand is back again. This time, the poking finger has been replaced by a small stuffed piggy.. I take the piggy.. and granddaughter shrieks with laughter and starts clapping. (I think she was around 4 years old)
10 minutes later, I’m finding it difficult to move, as my bunk is littered with the child’s toys. I’m not sure about the proper etiquette with regards to playing with Chinese children, but across the way, Mother Time is smiling warmly (as a Jack-o-lantern might, if it did not want to scare the children) , so I continued to enjoy playing “trade the toy” with Mei Mei (little sister). Not having any toys, I give her a couple dollar coins to play with.
I’m hungry, I ask the train attendant where the dining car is, she tells me it’s car 10. A meal of rice, broccoli and chicken satiate my pallet, so I returned to my room to call it a night. Mei Mei, however, had other plans. Mom had purchased a toy stick helicopter from one of the vendors and Mei Mei is not going to sleep until I fly it with her a few thousand times.
We are flying the copter in the narrow hallway trying to set distance records when she suddenly decides it would be fun to take off running.. Mom and crew are not in sight so I give chase. A train attendant catches her before I do. I take her hand and turn around to go back down the aisle and notice that little Asian heads are poking out of every room on the narrow corridor. Apparently it’s not every day you see a lumbering American chasing a 4 year old Chinese girl through the train shouting “Bu Hao! Bu Hao!” Not Good! Not Good! I haven’t done anything wrong, so why do I suddenly feel like a kidnapper… I begin to fear for my life.. must get this child back to mom!
Mom thanks me, or scolds me, I’m not sure which. I’m winded from my chase, time to go to sleep. Just before my eyes close, the hand is back. This time it’s giving me a little piggy pillow.. Then the lil’ hand takes mine and pulls my arm over the side of the bunk. She plays with my “fat fingers” until she falls asleep.
6:00 am.. the train is at one of many stops, a little hand pokes me awake.. “Ci Jian, Ge Ge.. Wo eye ni!” Goodbye older brother, I love you!
I awake two hours later; my room is empty, save two dollar coins sitting on the table. I suddenly feel very lonely. I’ll miss my little sister.
There are 2,300 ceiling tiles in Guilin station and 400 flickering fluorescent lights, all humming a tune, not quite pleasant, not quite harmonious, but a tune none the less. The hard bench is forcing my spine into an unpleasant therapeutic alignment, the clothes in my pack provide a makeshift pillow, the 400 member fluorescent choir continues humming somewhere above. I’m such a baby when I’m sick. “Hey China, Shut up and let me rest!” My train will be here in two more hours, 18 hrs later I’ll be back in my dorm, eating chicken soup and reflecting on the events of the past few days…
3 days earlier..
My final exams are finished, I’m bored. I pack a change of cloths, my camera and my passport. A Google search and a few clicks tell me there is an overnight train to Guilin leaving from Shenzhen at 6:00. Shenzhen.. hmm.. nice, maybe I’ll find a stall where I can buy a used Ipod and wallet. (ref: Shenzhen of Thieves)
There are generally three options for traveling by train in China; hard seats, hard sleepers and soft sleepers. Hard seats are exactly what they sound like. These cars are equipped for sitting only. The hard sleepers are actually quite comfortable rooms with 6 bunks, three on each side. The soft sleepers are more expensive. The rooms have doors and there are only four bunks.This train should be an uneventful ride, but as luck would have it, I’m sharing the hard sleeper with 4 generations of Chinese women; Granddaughter, Mother, Grandma and, if my perceptions are accurate, Mother Time. They are very excited when I respond to them in Chinese and equally excited when 10 min later, I exhaust my vocabulary.
I’m laying on the middle bunk, Granddaughter and Grandmother are below me and the other two are on adjacent bunks. Not long after the train starts and the car grows quiet, a little hand snakes up from below and pokes my arm.. “Ge Ge…..Ge Ge.." Older brother… Older Brother, says a small little voice from below… then the hand is back again. This time, the poking finger has been replaced by a small stuffed piggy.. I take the piggy.. and granddaughter shrieks with laughter and starts clapping. (I think she was around 4 years old)
10 minutes later, I’m finding it difficult to move, as my bunk is littered with the child’s toys. I’m not sure about the proper etiquette with regards to playing with Chinese children, but across the way, Mother Time is smiling warmly (as a Jack-o-lantern might, if it did not want to scare the children) , so I continued to enjoy playing “trade the toy” with Mei Mei (little sister). Not having any toys, I give her a couple dollar coins to play with.I’m hungry, I ask the train attendant where the dining car is, she tells me it’s car 10. A meal of rice, broccoli and chicken satiate my pallet, so I returned to my room to call it a night. Mei Mei, however, had other plans. Mom had purchased a toy stick helicopter from one of the vendors and Mei Mei is not going to sleep until I fly it with her a few thousand times.
We are flying the copter in the narrow hallway trying to set distance records when she suddenly decides it would be fun to take off running.. Mom and crew are not in sight so I give chase. A train attendant catches her before I do. I take her hand and turn around to go back down the aisle and notice that little Asian heads are poking out of every room on the narrow corridor. Apparently it’s not every day you see a lumbering American chasing a 4 year old Chinese girl through the train shouting “Bu Hao! Bu Hao!” Not Good! Not Good! I haven’t done anything wrong, so why do I suddenly feel like a kidnapper… I begin to fear for my life.. must get this child back to mom!Mom thanks me, or scolds me, I’m not sure which. I’m winded from my chase, time to go to sleep. Just before my eyes close, the hand is back. This time it’s giving me a little piggy pillow.. Then the lil’ hand takes mine and pulls my arm over the side of the bunk. She plays with my “fat fingers” until she falls asleep.
6:00 am.. the train is at one of many stops, a little hand pokes me awake.. “Ci Jian, Ge Ge.. Wo eye ni!” Goodbye older brother, I love you!
I awake two hours later; my room is empty, save two dollar coins sitting on the table. I suddenly feel very lonely. I’ll miss my little sister.
Wednesday, February 7, 2007
Guilin - Part2 - The Tea House
It’s 10:00 and my train has just arrived in Guilin, a city many consider to be the most beautiful in China, and I am excited to begin exploring. First surprise is the temperature, it’s near freezing outside in mid December. Mild by some standards but coming from Hong Kong where we are still enjoying high 50’s it comes as a bit of a surprise.. I’m not dressed for it.
Guilin is famous for its rock formations that are seemingly pushed up in random patterns across the landscape. Some are green and tropical, others grey and cold, but all seem to hold a captive beauty that inspires and mesmerizes.
Equally contributing to Guilin’s charm are the calm, green waters of the river Li. This picturesque river flows from Guilin to Yongshuo, another popular tourist attraction, but one that I am unable to visit in my limited time.
After walking around the city for a while, I stop at a tea and tobacco shop to have a rest and ask about available hotel rooms. The gentle man and his wife give me many helpful options. I am drinking tea with him until his wife picks up the youngest of their children and then pulls a bucket out from under our table. She holds the child over it unit her business is completed, then kicks the bucket back under the table.. “More Tea?” … “I’m good, thanks.”
The rest of the day is fairly uneventful. I travel to Elephant park (so named for the large hill in the center which vaguely resembles an elephant) and walk around for a bit.
I explore a cave…
Take pictures with strangers (their request)…..
Hug the Buddha….
And when leaving, I meet this guy. I’m not sure who he is, but if I ever hear a riddle that begins "96 legs but only two feet, three rolling wheels and 25 seats…" I’ll know the answer.
When I get to my hotel, it’s no surprise the going rate is marked at over 4 times the price my friends at the tea shop arranged for me. I presented the note given to me by the shop owner and grudgingly I am given a room at a 75% discount (price 95 yuan –vs- 400 yuan advertised). It pays to make some local friends. It’s not long before I’m off to sleep… tomorrow is going to be one long day.
Tuesday, February 6, 2007
Guilin - Part 3 - Longji
I’m not feeling very well today… think I’m starting to get a bit of a cold.. I sit in the back of a small bus which is struggling to make its way up a narrow mountain road. The backpacker beside me tells me he’s been traveling around China for two months now and he’s from Israel, and he’s just met up with his mom, and this is his mom, and she gives me fruit.. and I just don’t care… I’m watching the edge of the narrow road, and of more particular interest is the river running some 1000 feet below. I don’t know if it’s amaxophobia, illyngophobia , judeophobia or some combination of the three… but I’m starting to feel very anxious… can’t we get there already, I want off this bus!
A few minutes later, we reach the end of the road and unload. We are high up in the mountains near the village of Long Ji. It’s meant to be a beautiful terraced rice field, but visibility is restricted to a few hundred feet. My pack resting heavily on my back, I say goodbye to my backpacker friend and thank his mom for the fruit and quietly disappear into the fog.
“hello… hello…” says the fog a few minutes into my hike. The dim silhouette of a souvenir stall looms ominously in the mist.. the voice continues… “hello… hello”. I’m in no mood to shop. My hands shoved a bit deeper into my pockets, I continue trudging through the mud.
Thump.. Thump.. Thump.. .. Is that my heart? It stops… I hope not. Ignore it and continue walking… Thump.. Thump.. Thump.. it’s back again.. this time the rhythmic pounding is more discernable and less ominous. I’ve reached the base of the village of Longji, a village undergoing much renovation, as locals try to capitalize on the recent influx of tourism into the area.
Thump.. Thump.. Thump.. now I can see the source of the noise. Not sure what this guy is doing, but he amuses me… the homemade cigarette in his mouth lets out a little puff of smoke with every swing, I’m reminded of a steam engine. My mind flashes back to my childhood days at the arcades.. I miss Whack-a-Mole.
A glance at my phone, tells me it’s 4:00. The last bus leaves from the drop location at 6:00. I’m already a good 30min walk away.. I decide that I’ll just see what happens in the village, and if nothing else, find a dry spot to sleep.
I’m immediately very impressed by the village. It’s the first time I’ve seen all-wood constructions since leaving the US. It’s quiet up here, no vehicles to create noise, and very little electricity so much of the work is still done using hand tools.
After passing through the village, I continue to hike towards the top of the mountain, where the best views of the terraced fields are said to be. Near the top, I pass a small wooden shack with a balcony that hangs over the side of the mountain. It’s a precarious creation to say the least, but a great spot to snap a few pictures.
A few minutes later, we reach the end of the road and unload. We are high up in the mountains near the village of Long Ji. It’s meant to be a beautiful terraced rice field, but visibility is restricted to a few hundred feet. My pack resting heavily on my back, I say goodbye to my backpacker friend and thank his mom for the fruit and quietly disappear into the fog.
“hello… hello…” says the fog a few minutes into my hike. The dim silhouette of a souvenir stall looms ominously in the mist.. the voice continues… “hello… hello”. I’m in no mood to shop. My hands shoved a bit deeper into my pockets, I continue trudging through the mud.
Thump.. Thump.. Thump.. .. Is that my heart? It stops… I hope not. Ignore it and continue walking… Thump.. Thump.. Thump.. it’s back again.. this time the rhythmic pounding is more discernable and less ominous. I’ve reached the base of the village of Longji, a village undergoing much renovation, as locals try to capitalize on the recent influx of tourism into the area.
Thump.. Thump.. Thump.. now I can see the source of the noise. Not sure what this guy is doing, but he amuses me… the homemade cigarette in his mouth lets out a little puff of smoke with every swing, I’m reminded of a steam engine. My mind flashes back to my childhood days at the arcades.. I miss Whack-a-Mole.A glance at my phone, tells me it’s 4:00. The last bus leaves from the drop location at 6:00. I’m already a good 30min walk away.. I decide that I’ll just see what happens in the village, and if nothing else, find a dry spot to sleep.
I’m immediately very impressed by the village. It’s the first time I’ve seen all-wood constructions since leaving the US. It’s quiet up here, no vehicles to create noise, and very little electricity so much of the work is still done using hand tools.
After passing through the village, I continue to hike towards the top of the mountain, where the best views of the terraced fields are said to be. Near the top, I pass a small wooden shack with a balcony that hangs over the side of the mountain. It’s a precarious creation to say the least, but a great spot to snap a few pictures.
There is a girl in traditional dress that will take a picture with you for a certain amount of money. I have my own camera, but buy a picture from her as well. It was interesting to see inside her living area. She has a bed, some baby cloths, a computer, printer and laminator and that’s about it, all in a house would be considerably smaller than most of our bathrooms.
I reach the top of the mountain as the sun is beginning to set. While sitting on a ledge overlooking the mountainside, I take a few moments to appreciate the beauty of my surroundings. A bitterly cold breeze and the growing darkness bring me back to reality. I have no flashlight, the village has no lamps and I have no place to stay… hmmm time to head back down to the village.
On the way down I meet these two guys heading home after a day in the field (and pub if my nose tells me the truth) and one is kind enough to let me take a couple pictures with him. I love annoying the local people!
Coming back into the village, I hear “Hello!” again.. This time it’s a group of Asian students from Guilin excited to practice their English. They ask me questions in English and I respond in Chinese. After a while they ask me where I’m staying.. I tell them I have no idea.. The look of horror on their faces is quickly replaced with excitement when I agree to follow them back to their “hotel” and stay with them for the night. (I don’t know if they fully appreciate how happy I was to meet them… I had no idea where I was going to sleep for the night)
We arrive at the hotel.. it’s a three story wooden building very similar to all the other buildings in the village. The bottom floor has a large, open dining room.. a few jars of pickled snakes sit on shelves along the wall, a computer, dvd player,tv and karaoke machine form an impressive entertainment center, although none have been hooked up and look as if they will not be anytime soon. The second floor is the sleeping area. There are 6 rooms here, each room with 2 or three beds in it, but no other furniture. They do have a shower room, but the walls are made of sheet plastic and it’s too bloody cold anyway, I’ll just take a spray on shower, thanks.
Walking to my bed, I hear a conversation beneath me.. looking down, I am surprised (I think) to realize that I can see the conversation taking place as well. These floor boards are thin and sporadic… note to self… no sleep walking. The bed was quite comfortable; however, I noticed that all the blankets were wet.. (from the mist) and very, very cold. This should be the perfect icing for my pneumonia cake.
I reach the top of the mountain as the sun is beginning to set. While sitting on a ledge overlooking the mountainside, I take a few moments to appreciate the beauty of my surroundings. A bitterly cold breeze and the growing darkness bring me back to reality. I have no flashlight, the village has no lamps and I have no place to stay… hmmm time to head back down to the village.
On the way down I meet these two guys heading home after a day in the field (and pub if my nose tells me the truth) and one is kind enough to let me take a couple pictures with him. I love annoying the local people!
Coming back into the village, I hear “Hello!” again.. This time it’s a group of Asian students from Guilin excited to practice their English. They ask me questions in English and I respond in Chinese. After a while they ask me where I’m staying.. I tell them I have no idea.. The look of horror on their faces is quickly replaced with excitement when I agree to follow them back to their “hotel” and stay with them for the night. (I don’t know if they fully appreciate how happy I was to meet them… I had no idea where I was going to sleep for the night)
We arrive at the hotel.. it’s a three story wooden building very similar to all the other buildings in the village. The bottom floor has a large, open dining room.. a few jars of pickled snakes sit on shelves along the wall, a computer, dvd player,tv and karaoke machine form an impressive entertainment center, although none have been hooked up and look as if they will not be anytime soon. The second floor is the sleeping area. There are 6 rooms here, each room with 2 or three beds in it, but no other furniture. They do have a shower room, but the walls are made of sheet plastic and it’s too bloody cold anyway, I’ll just take a spray on shower, thanks.
Walking to my bed, I hear a conversation beneath me.. looking down, I am surprised (I think) to realize that I can see the conversation taking place as well. These floor boards are thin and sporadic… note to self… no sleep walking. The bed was quite comfortable; however, I noticed that all the blankets were wet.. (from the mist) and very, very cold. This should be the perfect icing for my pneumonia cake.
My friends came to get me for supper, so we adjourned to the “kitchen/dining room” to eat. We were joined by the hotels permanent guests: the owner and his wife, his mother, and his daughter and her husband. We sat in a circle surrounding a cooking pot suspended over an open fire.
The food is some of the best I’ve ever had, and I eat a lot of it. Grandma brings out some of her home-made rice wine and offers me a glass. I suppose gasoline is an acquired taste, grandma certainly seems to enjoy it, or maybe she just enjoys the look on my face as I try to mask the displeasure of consuming this high-octane brew.
After dinner we return to the first floor and sit around another open fire.. the Chinese girls sing and chat and make shoes, while we men play cards and enjoy a proper beer. My Chinese friends tell me to take the first shower and then they will shower.. I say ok and go to the shower “room”. I can’t do it… it’s freezing in here… I sneak out and into my room and crawl under my cold, wet blankets.
The sun and a knock on the door awake me at 10:00 the next morning. I try to say come in, but my voice won’t cooperate. I feel miserable.. My friends are leaving to continue the hike to another village a few hrs away and invite me to go with them. My girlfriend is visiting me in Hong Kong in a few days, so I politely refuse. I need to get back to Guilin… my train leaves tonight.
The food is some of the best I’ve ever had, and I eat a lot of it. Grandma brings out some of her home-made rice wine and offers me a glass. I suppose gasoline is an acquired taste, grandma certainly seems to enjoy it, or maybe she just enjoys the look on my face as I try to mask the displeasure of consuming this high-octane brew.
After dinner we return to the first floor and sit around another open fire.. the Chinese girls sing and chat and make shoes, while we men play cards and enjoy a proper beer. My Chinese friends tell me to take the first shower and then they will shower.. I say ok and go to the shower “room”. I can’t do it… it’s freezing in here… I sneak out and into my room and crawl under my cold, wet blankets.
The sun and a knock on the door awake me at 10:00 the next morning. I try to say come in, but my voice won’t cooperate. I feel miserable.. My friends are leaving to continue the hike to another village a few hrs away and invite me to go with them. My girlfriend is visiting me in Hong Kong in a few days, so I politely refuse. I need to get back to Guilin… my train leaves tonight.
Monday, February 5, 2007
Guilin - Closing comments
Without a doubt, the trip to Longji made this visit to Guilin worth it. Guilin itself failed to impress me, but the surrounding areas are magnificent. Maybe it’s my Amish blood or my preference for the simple life, but I fell in love with Longji and will certainly be back.
I still keep in contact with the Chinese friends I made there, and hope to see them again someday soon. I often wonder what lil’ sister is up to.. I think I miss her the most, she was such a bright and talented lil’girl. I just hope that she has a long and happy life and continues to outshine those around her.
As for me.. I’m back in school, working on my second semester now. I’m going to take a break from writing for a while and focus on my classes, but I’ll be back.
I still keep in contact with the Chinese friends I made there, and hope to see them again someday soon. I often wonder what lil’ sister is up to.. I think I miss her the most, she was such a bright and talented lil’girl. I just hope that she has a long and happy life and continues to outshine those around her.
As for me.. I’m back in school, working on my second semester now. I’m going to take a break from writing for a while and focus on my classes, but I’ll be back.
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